Itinerary

Overnight Kamieskroon Hotel

2 nights camping at Ai-Ais

Border jam, Vioolsdrif

It seemed as if half of South Africa's 4x4s were heading north of the border.

Ai-Ais campsite

The other half was already there at Ai-Ais resort, Fish River. It looked like an outdoor gear showroom with posing to match. Hobas is a better camping option.

In the Fish River Canyon, north of Ai-Ais

Here I resolved to tackle the 80km Fish River Canyon hiking trail with some likeminded friends - next time.

Overnight at Farm Tiras in the Tiras Mountain Conservancy (it deserves more time)

Drive via Duwisib and Büllsport - good roads and quiet

Camp at Solitaire. Blown away.

Fish River Canyon Panorama

This is quite possibly the most photographed site in Namibia, but 29 years since my first visit, I couldn't resist it once more. I'm still learning how the photostitching software works.

The hiking trail commences off to the right.

Namib Panorama

We took the D707 which skirts the Tiras Mts with the red sand sea of the Namib lapping to the left. This is a spectacular drive - well worth it.

The plan was to camp at Solitaire for two nights and drive down to Sesriem and Sossusvlei and back. But heeding local advice - and the remonstrations that night of our tent, for which I have new respect - we skipped the vlei.

Threatening sandstorm on the D707

Just as well, as we heard the stories about sandblasted bodywork and frosted headlights later. Apparently it was a real "red out".

Anyway, here's a shot of Sossusvlei in April 1997, when we saw it in flood - an unusual event.

3 nights at Swakopmund in a chalet (2 were planned and would be enough)

Namib-Naukluft National Park

As the South African convoys made dust for Walvis Bay, we diverted through the park and the gravel desert. Wonderful solitude.

Swakopmund's Pier at sunset

Swakopmund is a colonial anachronism, but 15 years after my last visit, it is starting to look like downtown SA. Much of its quaintness is dissipating in a sea of commerce and tourism.

Welwitschia Plain

On the gravel plains of the Namib-Naukluft Park you will find many specimens of Welwitschia Mirabilis, a "bizarre Namib endemic" plant. Surprisingly, for us, we continued spotting them well into Damaraland.

Spitzkoppe

While the convoys headed for Henties Bay, we angled inland to see these granite inselbergs. One would think that some granite koppies are nothing special, until one sees these spires rising out of the flatness.

Camp at Ugab Wilderness Camp - one of the highlights

Spitzkoppe

Up close the Spitzkoppe are even more striking. The rock seems to possess a satin-like finish. The community-operated campsite looks like a good base to explore the massif from for a couple of days

Brandberg White Lady Lodge

A new lodge in the Ugab River valley. "White Lady" refers to the San rockpainting of a warrior in white pigment, mistakenly identified as a "white lady" by a European explorer. The painting is located in the nearby Brandberg.

Tsisab Gorge, Brandberg

I like this photo because of the colour of the rock, which probably accounts for the Brandberg's name, literally "fire mountain". It is the inner granite core of a once massive volcano - and also the highest mountain in Namibia.

Brandberg, daughter Heather and me

On the walk back from the "White Lady". Most of these sites, including the "Petrified Forest" are now operated by local communities, with state assistance, and cannot be visited without the local, trained guide. Its a great idea and we enjoyed the guides.